Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne

For someone who dreads being out of touch, my Blackberry has become my constant companion on holiday. Last August as I lay on a secluded beach in Thailand, the familiar vibration alerted me to my 50^{th email of the day. Would it be a private booking? A message about a new vintage that had won awards?  Or another request to be on a judging panel?  My ever patient wife, Sue, was heard to mutter (again), ‘Just ignore it for once’.}

‘How would you like to become a dame?’ I asked. 

‘How many mojitos have you had today?’ she returned crossly, ‘You know I have no interest in amateur dramatics’.

Closer inspection brought further rewards. We had been invited to be intronised as Dame and Chevalier of L’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne at their annual dinner in London in October.

Earlier this week, waiting nervously in a tiny, but perfectly formed Champagne Bar, fittingly called Gilt, at the Jumeirah Carlton Hotel, our thoughts were racing as to what we may have to say or do to be worthy of this achievement.

There was no need to worry …..

We were welcomed into a privileged club who simply love Champagne and in which every member has done their bit to promote this most wonderful and evocative of wines. Any occasion that features Champagne is an exciting celebration and this one certainly did not disappoint.

The ceremony to welcome us into this clique contained enough trumpets, robes and medallions (and that was just the men) to impress anyone. Each new member was welcomed with a glass of champagne that needed to be drunk in one (obviously the most important of skills required to call yourself a Dame or Chevalier).  This was followed by an embarrassingly long resume of their CV (some more doctored by the committee than others) before we were introduced to the famous and not so well known line of dignitaries.  There was warmth and humour throughout and the feeling that a common love of Champagne was enough to unite all these diverse members (or perhaps that was just the glass of alcohol hitting the bloodstream). 

Having been presented with a stunning gold medallion on a lime green ribbon and an impressive certificate, we were ushered over to a reception of 3 different champagnes beautifully presented in huge silver buckets on individual stations.

Champagne Guy Cadel Grande Reserve NV

Small local house from Mardevil, mostly Chardonnay, light, bright elegant with a soft brioche and fruit elegance.

Champagne Jacquart Brut Mosaique NV

Lemon and crisp apple on nose, with a rolling mousse of herbal and citrus fruit, quite delicate

Champagne Le Mesnil Blancs de Blancs Grand Cuvee NV

100% Chardonnay, deep long exciting and very aged in taste, this is a great wine, this was my favourite champagne at the reception.   

Dinner was then served, the highlight of which was each Champagne being served simultaneously by 12 sommeliers at our table. We were privileged to be on top Table with Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger as our Host. Special praise to the Executive Chef at the Jumeirah Carlton Tower, Simon Young, who produced a fantastic menu worthy of the following stunning wines.

Terrine of Norfolk Partridge

Champagne Thienot Brut 2002

I liked this dry, deep champagne which was a perfect match to the rich gamey terrine; the crisp clean champagne flavours were perfect to cut through some nice meaty flavours

Roast Diver Scallops in the Shell Wrapped in Cured Bacon with Ginger

Champagne Ruinart Blancs de Blancs NV

The scallops were stunning, and Ruinart always deliver, although I would have preferred to have it in magnums, but this was a classic food & wine match. Delicate scallops wrapped up with a bit of butch bacon with chardonnay champagne built with luminosity and sheer golden class. 

Roast Loin of Lamb, with Sweetbread fritters, Spring Rolls of Confit …

Champagne Taittinger les Foiles de la Marquetterie NV

I had the privilege to have dinner at this Single Vineyard outpost of Champagne Taittinger, after running the Champagne marathon last year, this is without question the finest Single Vineyard Non Vintage Champagne available. The depth of flavour, the elegance and its ability to match such a full lamb dish is brilliant.

A Tasting of Blackberries

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Rose Reseve Brut

A very refreshing array of desserts matched by a very deep intense Rose, I would have loved this in a Pinot Noir glass, very classy and a stunning aged flavour to it.            

Champagnes after dinner …..  Numerous!

Thanks to Justin Llewelyn Consul General

& Derek Picot, Vive President Europe & GM Jumeirah Carlton Tower